With the weekend upon us, it was time for more scheduled fun time with our favourite Mr. Tan from Saigon Tourist. This time, the dials were set to head to the Mekong Delta, one of the largest and longest river systems in the world. It was another early start, and a long drive (passing through Saigon), but I think the team were ready for it.
Unfortunately the bus wasn’t! Just outside HCMC we managed to get a flat tyre L. As you would expect however, help was not far away. How long we coasted for with a flat I am not sure, but our stopping point was a road side tyre merchant. Convenient. It seemed quite rude to interrupt the mechanics hammock slumber, but upon acknowledgment of the business he was straight to it. We were jacked up in no time and the spare was fitted. Really quite impressive if you ask me. Compared to life in the UK, we would probably have spent an age on the phone to the AA trying to describe our location, waited at least 30 minutes for the AA van to arrive and finally faffing agreeing all the paperwork. Here done and dusted in 10 minutes in situ. Ok it wasn’t a F1 3 second stop, but it was somewhere in-between!
Up in a flash on the air jack, tyre unscrewed with the aid of the air compressor
Puncture, what puncture, new tyre in situ within a jiffy
With an A1 bus, we entered into the ‘rice bowl’ of Vietnam. Shiny smooth motorways have carved through pristine green rice paddy fields to fuel a buoyant export trade. Vietnam is now the second largest exporter in the world of rice. They have achieved this by growing up to 4 crops a year in this silty fertile basin. As for history well I would like to say I had paid more attention to Mr. Tan and made notes (Maria), however I am going to crib from the guide book.
The delta was once part of the Cambodian Khymer Kingdom, that is until Vietnam decided to annex the territory. Naturally war broke out with the Khymer Rouge attacking newly settled Vietnamese villages. Vietnam supressed this aggression in 1978 ousting the Khymer Rouge from power. To this day the Cambodian people consider the area to be ‘lower Cambodia’.
The Mekong is known as the river of nine dragons. It stretches 4500km originating in Tibet and flows through China, Myanmar, Laos, the Thai-Laos boarder, Cambodia and finally Vietnam. It is the branching at Pheom Penh in Cambodia that creates 9 divergent tributaries that enter the South China Sea; the so called nine dragons. My initial thoughts were that the river really is the lifeblood of industry in the region. Plans for dams further upstream in Laos and China only underline the stresses being put upon access to water in our world. Let’s hope the abundant and highly sought after Catfish, find some wet stuff to keep their end up.
Arriving in Can Tho, we traded bus for boat. Mr. Tan stood aside as our multilingual Mrs. Kim took charge. A strong woman, she commanded the stage throughout the tour as a knowledgeable, friendly and intrinsic orchestrator of the communities she guided us through. Alas my colleagues could not help themselves in the gift shop. However we later found out that there are quality levels for conical hats. I looked for the ISO 9001 stamp but I didn’t see one.
All aboard the boat up the Mekong
Cruising the Mekong under the giant suspension bridge
How ridiculous do this pair look! However they do provide sun, rain and falling coconut relief I am told
First stop for the boat, a coconut sweet factory. Nestled on the banks of the river we hopped off to the sweet smell of sugar. A one armed man then demonstrated the process of breaking apart the coconuts on a large up turned spike. A UK health and safety officer would have had a field day in this place. The next step was to extract the coconut flesh, again using a rather scary curved knife tool. Pressed and ground, the flesh was then added to a sugar syrup mix before being left to set slightly. It reminded me of the Fudge Kitchen, just less marble. Expertly shaped and worked, squares of green stuff rolled off onto the packaging line. Super nimble fingered ladies then performed the art of wrapping each item in rice paper and wrapping paper. The speed was just incredible.
Mrs. Kim introducing the de-husking process using the large spike
Coconuts are then scraped of their flesh before being pressed
Boiling up the mixture
Rolled and pressed into shape, the mixture was very malleable at this point
Expert hands twist, fold and warp at lightning pace
Rather impressed with the taste test, I was compelled to buy some. I was glad I did as I soon realised that our tour guide Mr. Tan had bought shed loads. He said every time he comes here his family demands a shipment. They must be good.
Our return to the boat was precluded with two brief side shows. The first, a massive pet snake. Much hilarity was to be had when the reptile was wrapped around Erin’s neck. Let’s just say she was less than comfortable. The second side show would be another product of the island, Honey. I enjoyed the honey tea served with candied ginger, banana and peanuts. Sure it was a point of sale, but I supped up and walked on.
Zulima cool as a cucumber with the snake
Making honey is clearly a sweaty business in Vietnam
Honey tea and sweets. A good afternoon tea
A brief meander up river, under an enormous bridge, brought us back up onto the Ben Tre islands. Arriving a little late, the local rowing boat ladies had been working hard for their dollar in the mid afternoon sun. We were headed for lunch somewhere on the island, what would unfurl is a mini adventure. A gentle and peaceful row down the backwaters in the 3 man boats was majestic. Bamboo framed the stream with strange exotic fruits all around to see. Hopping off, we would then walk through orchard and farmland to a rather large riverside restaurant. Fruit is abundant everywhere in Vietnam. Mrs. Kim was also keen to show off a local crop of cocoa. She mentioned that just 3 weeks ago some Belgians had arrived in the area to help the region grow the black bean used for making chocolate. She was confident that in 5 years’ time that this would be a new found gold for Vietnam.
Boats nestled on the backwaters
Trading motor boat for lady powered row boat
Riding crew. Not doing any paddling though 😦
Elephant ear fish – tasty lunch
Back on the boat, it was now time head to set off for another little cottage tourist industry. Fruit and folk music. As you might expect, it was rather quaint. I had some of the fruit but reaffirmed my ambivalence to it. The singing was turned up a notch when Radek and Vinod got involved. Almost twice the singers size, the strange Vietnamese, Indo Slovak band didn’t really cut the mustard. But it was funny. It might of won Britain’s Got Talent.
More strange fruit. Why does it always look like it wants to kill you
All they needed was a microphone! Radek and Vinod made do with clapping
That was it, we had sampled every tourist niche the islands had going. I must admit it felt quite genuine. Ok yes it has been made accessible, but I did give a glimpse of what life might be life on the Mekong. All that was left to do now was to head back to the bus. That was easier said than done as our boats propeller had magnetised some floating vegetation. Making awful crunching noises, we were one step away from the river equivalent AA being called. But of course this being Vietnam no such action was necessary. The driver stripped to his pants and jumped straight in. Under the boat he yanked at the offensive weed for some time. How he could see anything in the ‘yellow’ river is a wonder. More tools were needed, jumping back on board, he revealed a huge machete. Armed with his sharp, he set to work again freeing us. Sometime passes but sure enough, we were good to go.
Our driver taking the plunge
Still blocked with weeds, it was time to get out the huge machete
Another drive over more impressive bridges eventually got us to Can Tho, the capital of the Mekong Delta. It’s a relatively small place with a nice riverside atmosphere. Lined by park it has numerous streets leading off offering food and more. All of us together decided it was to be an Italian night eating in an unassuming place recommended by the guide book. I think it was here that held the record for the cheapest bottle of beer, 40p. As such we felt it necessary to double park and have a cocktail or two as well.
Crossing another huge expansive bridge
Getting drunk on super cheap beer at an Italian Restaurant in Can Tho
Some shopping followed in the local covered market before the heavens let loose of their supersized rain drops. Given the precipitation and some distance from the hotel, I felt it was the right time to take the plunge and buy a red t-shirt with a yellow Vietnamese star on it. They are everywhere but this one was mine for 80,000 Dong. About £3.
Anticipation for ‘something for the boys’ had been growing all day between the ladies of the group. Summoned to their hotel room, we were presented with something they had bought from where the hats had been bought earlier. Erin unfolded the newspaper package to reveal a small, thin bone like structure. It appeared to have to balls of cotton wool attached at one end. With much giddiness, it was revealed that they had bought a snake’s penis for us. Apparently you put them in tea and hot drinks to make you more… well I will stop there. How mature. It did provide much amusement and a fun end to the night. (No pictures – probably for the best)
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